As tourist numbers surge on the Italian island, the rural population faces a deepening water crisis.

For the first time in four generations, Vito Amantia's family farm in Sicily has fallen silent. This year, his threshers have remained unused, with the 650,000kg of wheat his farm typically produces left to dry and shrivel under the relentless heat and persistent drought.

"A farmer with experience doesn't need to look at the weather forecast to know what's coming," says Amantia, 68, who operates on the Catania plain in eastern Sicily. "Back in January, I already knew this year would be catastrophic. Wheat seedlings that usually grow to 80cm only reached 5cm before drying out."

Sicily is currently experiencing one of the most severe water shortages in its history. This Mediterranean island, the largest and most populous in the region, recorded a European high temperature of 48.8°C in 2021 and now faces a serious risk of desertification. The last six months of 2023 saw just 150mm of rainfall, prompting the Italian government to declare a state of emergency in May.

While the crisis threatens the livelihoods of many locals, it hasn't discouraged tourists. Similar to other southern European regions, Sicily is caught between dwindling water supplies and a rising tide of visitors who, despite increasing the strain on resources, are vital to the local economy.

"Southern Europe, including Spain and Sicily, has always been a favorite among travelers," notes Christian Mulder, an ecology and climate emergency professor at the University of Catania. "The average tourist is drawn to the sun and expects water to be readily available, oblivious to the scarcity. This influx of tourists amplifies the strain on Sicily's already limited water resources, with inevitable environmental repercussions."

The climate emergency has placed 70% of Sicily at risk of desertification, according to the Italian National Research Council. Most of the island's lakes are nearly dry. The once vast artificial lake of Fanaco, located in central Sicily, has diminished from a capacity of 20 million cubic meters to just 300,000, leaving behind stagnant mud puddles and the stench of decaying fish.

Facing water rationing, businesses have been forced to close, and thousands of households now store water in containers for basic needs. The National Association of the Agricultural Water Board reported that in March, some reservoirs meant for drinking water were operating at just 10% capacity.

"This drought emergency is unprecedented," declared Sicily's governor, Renato Schifani.

The situation is further exacerbated by summer wildfires, which have ravaged vegetation. Last year alone, fires caused over €60 million in damage, decimating more than 693 hectares of woodland. In just two days, from Monday to Tuesday, at least ten fires across the island destroyed dozens of hectares of forests, pine groves, and farmland.

Coldiretti, Italy's largest farmers' association, is attempting to support the agricultural sector by using its funds to refill artificial lakes with tankers. However, this effort is insufficient.

A journey through the Sicilian countryside reveals the scale of the problem, where the only signs of life are small herds of emaciated cattle scattered across the dry hills. Temperatures regularly exceed 40°C during the day, and there is no longer enough water for the livestock. According to a young farmers' association, the drought is driving young Sicilian farmers away, and many breeders have had to sell or slaughter their animals.

Liborio Mangiapane, a 60-year-old farmer with 100 cows and 150 goats in the countryside near Cammarata, Agrigento, warns that if conditions do not improve, he will have no choice but to cull his livestock.

"Without water, my cows no longer produce milk," Mangiapane laments. "The land is slowly turning into a desert. Even within our own family, we are forced to use bottled water for showers and cooking because there is no running water left."

This crisis is largely hidden from the eyes of tourists, though the hospitality sector is struggling to protect them from it. Despite the water shortages, Sicily's hotels, resorts, and B&Bs are still bustling with activity. The streets of the main cities are packed with tourists, restaurants are fully booked, and the beaches are swarming with visitors. Museums, churches, and monuments see long lines of people waiting to get in.

"I was aware of the water crisis, but friends here in Sicily told me the situation wasn't dire, which is why I decided to come," says Loretta Sebastiani, a 25-year-old from Rome. "As for the heat, I'm accustomed to the stifling temperatures of the capital."

Gerardo Schuler, president of the main hotel association, Federalberghi, in Taormina, reports that the city's hotels are operating at 95% capacity, a figure boosted after the area was featured in the TV show "The White Lotus."

"There have been no cancellations or significant disruptions," says Nico Torrisi, president of Federalberghi Sicilia and CEO of Catania and Comiso airports. "However, some facilities, especially in the province of Agrigento, are encountering water supply issues. The reality is that in Sicily, the climate has been changing for years, and we must adapt to the fact that every summer will bring extreme heat and drought."

Despite these challenges, visitors continue to pour in. Data from the Data Appeal Company shows that flights to Sicily increased by 20% and 16% at the island's two main airports, Palermo and Catania, respectively, compared to last August.

Some hotels and B&Bs have taken precautions by installing water tanks, while others have had to resort to private water truck services, paying out of pocket to fill their tanks.

"Every morning, we check the water levels in our tanks," says Francesco Picarella, president of Federalberghi in Agrigento. "Tourists aren't leaving the cities, but some hotels and B&Bs are struggling to manage their water supply and ensure guests have enough water each day."

Sicily's drinking water traditionally comes from aquifers, underground rock layers filled with water, while agricultural water is stored in large tanks built after World War II. Both systems depend on increasingly scarce winter rainfall. For the past three decades, essential maintenance of the irrigation network has been neglected.

"Large hotels in drought-stricken areas like Agrigento have the infrastructure to supply water to their guests, but smaller businesses with fewer resources are suffering," Mulder observes.

Giuseppe Friscia, who operates a B&B in Sciacca, Agrigento, has purchased a warehouse to install water tanks with a capacity of up to 10,000 liters. "Some B&Bs have to hire private water trucks and pay €90 each time to fill their tanks," he explains.

The discovery of a subterranean aquifer in November last year may offer some hope. Geologists found the underground basin approximately 800 meters beneath the Iblei mountains in the province of Ragusa, estimating it contains around 17 billion cubic meters of water.

"If the analysis confirms its usability, this vast reservoir could be a crucial resource for the medium and long term," said Schifani.

However, for Catania farmer Vito Amantia, whose land lies just a few dozen kilometers from the aquifer, hope remains distant. He knows that the future of his livelihood, and that of the entire island, hangs by a thread.

"They'd better hurry," Amantia warns. "This is a ticking timebomb."